Squamish Seven Terrors

Matt Lucas penned a horror for your finger tips when he published the Squamish Seven Terrors on his blog. You’ll need good skin and better conditions to get through this circuit of “moderate” problems in whichever order you choose.

  1. Razorburn
  2. First of the Seven Terrors
  3. Good As Gold
  4. Cream Puff Dream
  5. Bad Day Low
  6. Old Git
  7. East Face (listed as An Hour Early in Squamish Bouldering 3rd Edition)

Matt making the First of the Seven Terrors look easy.

See Matt’s articles on Bad Day Low and Jamie Chong’s send.

Instants 6

Yew! It's been an unreal season! All of my dream projects that I always thought were way out of my league have been going down. The other day with an awesome crew I was able to send The Reckoning Stand (v10) – so psyched! I feel all kinds of fortune to be able to get outside with my homies and enjoy the magic of the Squamish forests. Thanks for the sweet shot @jeffhyoo! . For the past few months Julie @j00kab00 and I have been working to build a charity to share the experience and culture of rock climbing along with the love for the outdoors with youth who otherwise may never have the opportunity. We're proud to announce we're working with CascadiaNow! as our fiscal sponsor to become a project with official non-profit and tax-exempt status. Currently we're developing our programs and partnering with local youth agencies and climbing gyms in the Seattle area to bring these kids into the awesome and supportive climbing community. We recognize the outdoors is a privilege and everyone deserves to have the opportunity to enjoy its beauty. Check us out and follow us @verticalgeneration as we continue to grow – we appreciate all of your incredible support and love! #verticalgeneration #outdooroots

A photo posted by marc bourguignon (@thegnarwall) on


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Instants 5


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Instants 4

Today was a good day, one of those magical days that makes the pain and hard work worth it. It was very special to have my son, Thomas, cheer me on as I made it to the top of The Reckoning V14, my hardest to date. Even though he is only 8 months old I think he understood what I had just done. I sat on top of the boulder looking down at him in his portable crib and we giggled together taking in the moment. The other guys who were bouldering on the adjacent boulder blissful looked on. Thomas and I started this project together almost 4 months ago and we finished it together today. This photo is from a few weeks ago as I forgot my phone today and had no extra room for my camera. I did managed to carry 3 @petzl_official crash pads, diaper bag, baby squeeze food tube, baby crackers, a change of cloths for Thomas, toy car, toy rattle, toy rings, baby water bottle, my water bottle, my @evolvusa #Shaman's and #agro's, chalk bag, brush, collapsable baby crib, and of course 21 pound Thomas! Having a baby adds a new dimension when packing! #squamish #squamishbouldering #bouldering #alwaysevolv #croakiesadventure #petzlgram #sendage

A photo posted by Jamie Finlayson (@jamiefinlayson) on


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Sickle

The Sickle is the most obvious asterism in the spring evening sky. It is the head and mane of the constellation Leo and shaped like a backwards question mark.

This problem is one of the most obvious lines at The Constellations and is also shaped like a backwards question mark.

It is an easy problem but first ascents of easy problems can still be sketchy over bad jumbled rocky talus landings like this one’s. This face of rock is particularly solid. I just walked up to it and climbed it without cleaning a thing.

You can see how deep the snow is when I first pop up.

How Hummingbird Created the Stars

As I set up to try this line, a hummingbird startled me by zooming towards me. It stopped to hover just in front of my face and stared at me. Maybe it was my red shirt.

In North America, there is a legend about how the world was always in daytime. The animals angered The Great Spirt, so he covered the world with a blanket to punish them. The other animals tried but failed to solve the problem. Hummingbird could fly up to the blanket and poked holes in it with his beak to let the light through. He drew pictures in the blanket of his animal friends. The Great Spirt was so impressed by this effort, he removed the blanket for half the day and covered it again with the unmended blanket for the other half. That is how hummingbird created the stars.

Butterfly Cluster

No one would hike with me up to The Constellations so I had to go alone and scoop up some of the most obvious classic lines.

A few butterflies visited me so I named this problem after the open cluster of stars in Scorpius called Butterfly Cluster.

It is so clean up there that I didn’t need to brush anything to make this first first ascent of the area.

(This video shows me bouldering it for the second time.)

fiskars-folding-saw

I took a 10 inch folding saw. With a bit of cutting at the most branchy parts of the trail, I managed to wear a small crash pad the entire way up the trail with less difficulty than I thought. The trail is still rugged but it is improving at least a little bit with each trip.

Instants 3

The Constellations

“Why don’t we have a cool, summer alpine bouldering area?!” was all I could think as I sat early last summer stewing in the hot, humid air locked in the windless forest surrounding the Squamish boulders. Summer is the most predictably dry weather here but it’s not exactly sending conditions. Colorado has RMNP. Yosemite has Tuolumne. Why not us? We need an escape.

I searched Google Maps for a solution. A few potentially interesting rock piles appeared in the Squamish area. One pile looked particularly good but with especially arduous access. So I did the easy thing and I went to Tuolumne for the rest of the summer where the boulders are only a few minutes from the road. It was rad.

This spring, as we made our way through record-breaking 30°C weather in April, the same problem started creeping up. What am I going to do to make it through this summer? That pile of rocks was on my mind again.

the-constellations-boulder-field

Just look at that pile. It’s huge!

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Seven Sevens After Seven

It’ll take some hustle to climb any seven V7s after 7 pm without a headlamp. Long evenings makes this a good June challenge even on a work day.

Tim Catcher was likely the first to complete the Seven Sevens after Seven challenge all on one boulder.

  1. Stand-up to Sit-down to Holm Boy
  2. Square Cut Low
  3. Mindbender
  4. King Swing
  5. Golden Boy
  6. Master Plan
  7. Hummer Traverse