Lost in this World

In June 2015, Jack showed Derek and I a new climb he had done behind the big ass boulder at the Lost World called Steezy Flair. It was super fun for a little one and we had a good session. Afterwards, we found ourselves bashing around on the North side of the big bloc looking for nothing in particular when we spied the corner of what would become Rounding Second peeking out from under the moss. We got a little closer, then closer still, then ended up spending a few work days there doing stuff. When the moss cleared we were astounded to see how featured this giant wall actually was! The left side has some interesting features and fun variations, the right side has 5 nice highballs. All technical and exciting, but not necessarily dangerous. Touching First base and the laser cut Rounding Second start in separate corner systems and join up around 20 feet. The classic on this wall is probably Lost in this World which weaves up the center of the wall on sneaky features, through underclings and overlaps, with much trickery starting with your boots about 12 feet off the deck. This entire wall is predominantly technical face climbing on great rock with mega features and a good landing. The climbs Crazy Clown and LLK were named for our friend Kyle Wolochatiuk, who passed in a tragic speedwing accident on the Chief earlier that summer. Both awesome highballs with sit starts and 30 foot topouts that put a smile on your face and make you appreciate life, and climbing, and all the great people you meet, and beautiful places you get to go and be a part of. We enjoyed being lost in this world and hope others will too.

Not the best pic but u get the idea, we got high tonight! Here's Luke sending the technical highball "Lost in this world" from the ground up! So stoked to revisit this amazing wall with buddies, thanks for the pads and spots. @smellyrelly @loganfarrow @brockcrofton and Reilly. I didn't want to do this climb tonight and was just hoping to watch/instigate, but somehow I ended up way up there doing it again hahahaha, anyways, it brought back nice memories of being scared and how this wall came to be in the first place……(Spray alert 🚨) In summer 2015 @jack_fieldhouse Relic and I cleaned this wall, plus put 24 man hrs into a landing to open this side of the boulder. The first session yielded a few ok and a few very nice moderate highballs on the left side of the face, one being a very nice stemming corner and another few involving a phallic root top out. We then came back a few days later with alleged non boulderers guys: @browniephoto on his bday🤡 and @kyepetersen to establish 2 more great climbs on the far right side of the wall, sit starts to 30' topouts with many nice fun moves! Jack and I both kept ogling the elephant in the forest though, which was the line up the middle of the wall, weaving up nebulous looking overlaps and undulating granite ribs, it was the obvious test piece of what we had cleaned. A few weeks later we succumbed and began discerning the obvious, yet cryptic path. After cratering from the crux around 15' a dozen or so times we left and returned again, employing the rope This time to save our old dad knees from any more abuse. We worked it for a while before coming up with our sequences, then winter came and Jack blew his knee on the hill. After much frothing things came together. We got up early one day last summer and both got fully puckered sending this thing back to back, first him then myself immediately after. Luke was the first person I've convinced to go try it since then, and it was a real treat to return to this awesome hang and watch him catch our vision with relative ease, and much style. #textwalls_of_instagram #bouldernerd #gettinghighwithfriends #bouldering #squamishbouldering

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Accessing the top of the wall is basic and it is possible to use a rope to check out or clean holds etc on any of the climbs. This is an easy place to bring lots of pads and a nice hang out with lots of places for you to sit and eat snacks and vape, sometimes there’s even an owl there. Fun Fact: this boulder is actually 2 giant boulders separated by the crack of never-never land. Note: The Amphitheatre on the South end was recleaned in 2014. Directions: Go to the Lost World zone, these climbs are on the left side of the gigantic boulder, 5 min from car.

  1. Meet Mr. Limpy V1
    FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Ryan Davy, Derek Woolgar, Aug 1, 2015
    Start on the slab on the far left of the wall and climb up some features until you meet Mr. Limpy. Can also be done by starting on 4 and traversing in. A number of variations have been done involving this phallic root.
  2. The Dangler V1
    FA: Derek Woolgar, Ryan Davy, Jack Fieldhouse, Aug 1, 2015
    Up as for Mr Limpy but move right and mantel the slopey rail,  finish for 4.
  3. Limpy Var 5 V1
    FA: Ryan Davy, Jack Fieldhouse, Derek Woolgar Aug 1, 2015
  4. Touching First Base V1
    FA: Ryan Davy, Jack Fieldhouse, Derek Woolgar,  Aug 1, 2015
    Climb the first corner on the lower level of the wall, weaving up through awesome features to a mantel onto a ledge and a high easy topout up the groove.
  5. Rounding Second V3
    FA: Ryan Davy, Jack Fieldhouse, Derek Woolgar,  Aug 1, 2015
    Stem up the eye-catching corner until it swoops out and a sidepull takes you into the top of the previous problem.

  1. Lost in this World V6
    FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Ryan Davy, May 14, 2016
    Start in the serrated triangular feature in the middle of the wall and head up into bizarre, cerebral, granite face climbing. Weave through ribs and overlaps with some trickery, eventually gaining the small roof, undercling out right, then reach to a great hold. High quality.
  2. LLK V1+
    FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Ryan Davy, Aug 2, 2015
    Start on good edges in the rock scar and head straight up to an engaging bit of padding before gaining good holds under the roof and finishing as for the previous climb.
  3. Crazy Clown V1+
    FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Ryan Davy, Kieran Brownie, Kye Peterson, Aug 2, 2015
    Same start as previous, but take features up to an exciting, balancy move to the arete, then up it on the right side via much easier climbing, but with some exposure.
  4. LLK Sit V3
    FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Ryan Davy, Aug 2, 2015
    Sit low and right on edges and make a few pulls up left into the rock scar before joining LLK
  5. Crazy Clown Sit V3
    FA: Jack Fieldhouse, Ryan Davy, Aug 2, 2015
    Sit low and right on edges and make a few pulls up left into the rock scar before joining Crazy Clown.

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