The Beefy Yellow Gate is becoming a great place to park.
Out exploring the forest north of Peter and the Wolf, a glowing granite boulder appeared in the distance.
Someone must have been very psyched when they found this because they sure did develop the area. Based on the regrowth around the small maple stumps, it looks like the clearing was done in 2015 or 2016. There are still ropes hanging from the boulder and it looked like fresh chalk on some of the holds. A couple old Cordless crashpads are tucked under the boulder.
Paul Mcsorely snapped the following picture of Luke Neufeld cleaning what would become Moroccan Blonde.
It is a big boulder with the lip at about 5 meters and three steep sides. Don’t let the videos fool you. I’m 6’5″ (195 cm) tall and make a terrible model for showing scale.
Some very cool problems in the V3-5 range and some harder.
The first problem I climbed was a beautiful independent line up the middle of the a face. About 25° at the bottom and easing to 20° at the top. Slightly reachy moves between great holds. Likely around V4. The kind of problem I dream of finding. (A nice variation shares the same first move but then goes out right on slopers towards the dihedral.)
Right of the previous problem is a dihedral with a granite tufa similar to the tufa on Corner Relief. More fun, long moves and some surprising and welcome crimps near the top. Maybe V2 or V3.
The line that impressed me the most leads up a slightly overhanging face to a serious mantle. I tried the version that comes in from the left but there is a line of very small crimps directly below the mantle.
Jason Ammerlaan made the first ascent of this mantle problem.
- ??? V?
Paul Mcsorely, Spring 2017
Start on the slab. Climb right and around the corner. - Left Arete? V4
????, Spring 2017
Climb the face right of the arete using the left arete as you please. - ??? V?
Luke Neufeld, Spring 2017
Climb the face right of the arete without using the arete. - Moroccan Blonde V4
Luke Neufeld, Paul Mcsorely, Spring 2017
Climb the middle of the 25° face. Classic. - Lebanese Red V4
Jason Ammerlaan, Spring 2017
After the first move of Moroccan Blonde, go right on slopers to the lip. A tad harder and a good variation.
- Dilaudid V2
Paul Mcsorely, Luke Neufeld, Spring 2017
Climb the enjoyable dihedral on interesting holds.
- ??? V?
Paul Mcsorely, when????
Start with a positive right hand flake hold. Climb up the face using a blocky left hand hold. Join the ramp on the left near the top of the boulder.
- Bitch Pop V2
Tony Richardson, Paul Mcsorely, Spring 2017 - Sessionables V?
Jason Ammerlaan, Spring 2017
Start up Bitch Pop and traverse right on edges to the challenging mantle. - Sessionables Direct Project
The line of small crimps leading to the Sessionables mantle has been climbed but the two parts have not been put together for a full ascent. A prize waiting for someone.
Approach
Coordinates: (49.66526, -123.16446)
It is possible to approach from the north or south.
From the north: Park at Shannon Falls and walk to The God Boulders which are listed in Squamish Bouldering 3rd Edition. A trail leads south. Only about 100 meters away is the Intoxication Boulder.
From the south: Follow the approach to Peter and the Wolf. Don’t take the deluxe trail. Continue along the cut for another 150 meters until the cut is completely overgrown then bushwack northwest for another 100 m. See the approach directions and map for Peter and the Wolf.